This off-grid cottage near Ceres is the essence of slow travel (luxury incl.)
At GlenDonald Cottages, in the Cederberg, life centres around the Olifants River. We left feeling ease down to our bones (it's ideal for families and groups)
- Sonya Schoeman
AT A GLANCE HOW THIS STAY REDUCES ITS IMPACT
Energy usage Entirely solar except for gas geysers and stove
Water usage Drawn from the river and no need to restrict guests’ water use
Waste management Waste goes to next-door farm, which has no recycling facilities; however, owner has a stated goal to change this
Culture + community Employ local residents, pay living wages, provide staff bridging loans, supporting a crèche
Biodiversity + ecosystems Partner with CapeNature; remove alien plants; don’t use pesticides; no camping allowed to protect river, which has endangered Clanwilliam sawfin and yellowfish
Carbon footprint To get there from Cape Town in large, petrol car = 0,03 tCO2
Imagine the luxury of sleeping outdoors IMAGE Hannah Creatives
What makes this a memorable escape
When I think of this off-grid cottage in the Western Cape, my body gets there first: the rewarding shock of chilled water on skin; sound of running water; backing vocals of birds and crickets; base track of profound stillness; a crackling fire, braaibroodjies and crystal-clear night sky. Sleep as rejuvenating as a silent retreat.
Embodied memory is distributed across various neural networks, including sensor, motor and emotional processing areas, neuroscience shows. If you experience an environment as safe and nurturing, your whole body associates it with calm and security. Even the memory of it can tap into the benefits of the ease that comes from experiencing those feelings.
I experienced GlenDonald Cottage as such a space, calm and safe. And exquisite.
REVIEW This Piketberg heritage escape is also ideal for families and groups
A bird’s-eye view of the secluded property IMAGES Hannah Creatives
Conservation and biodiversity is priority here
Owner Coll Macdonald inherited this land in the Groot Winterhoek Wilderness Area from his father, and his greatest priority is to protect the area’s pristine environment and unique biodiversity.
The farm is a CapeNature protected environment, committed to keeping it free from alien invasions and to protecting the endangered yellowfish and sawfin endemic to the Olifants River.
EXPERIENCE A ‘walkshop’ with this cultural botanist will shake your view
For this reason there’s no camping allowed, and numbers are restricted to guests overnighting on the farm.
It is wonderfully peaceful there, the kind of place where you can read outside – and find yourself staring off into the mountains with the surround sound of birds.
A little gazebo set over the natural river pool is the perfect spot for birding, meditating or yoga; an Orange-breasted Sunbird IMAGES Hannah Creatives
Swim, fish or tube down the Olifants River
Days revolve around the water.
Even if you’re not the swimming types, the cottage is set above a delightful and deep swemgat (which we challenge you not to resist); the pretty view alone is satisfying enough for the senses.
But for those who like more action, the river is a great place for tubing (expect a few knocks) and fishing, along with long lazy swims after which you can sun yourself of the warm, pink Cederberg rocks.
Conservation efforts have paid off so hikes are satisfying: plenty of birds and other life to see.
Tubing down this magically clean river is a delight; evenings invariably end up around the outdoor fire IMAGES Courtesy GlenDonald and Hannah Creatives
All members of the family are welcome here; one of the outdoor dining areas IMAGES Hannah Creatives
It's ideal for a memorable special gathering
Two buildings make up the property, and both gorgeous.
The main cottage sleeps up to nine and is full of character, stuffed birds and columns of books. There’s an upstairs with single beds, so this is where a family or two can connect.
Save the outside cottage for the romantics. There are two en-suite bedrooms ideal for couples, with doors that open directly into the wild and a partially open-air shower.
And in-between the two buildings is one of the three communal areas, an outdoor fireplace just outside the kitchen. That’s where people inadvertently end up, but there are two other convivial dining areas.
I recommend giving each one a chance, because GlenDonald Cottage each of these spaces facilitate beautiful convivial mealtimes.
Upstairs are some single beds where kids can hang out; the stylish and quirky lounge in the main house IMAGES Hannah Creatives
DETAILS
Stay Accommodation ranges from R7 750 per night for the cottage, minimum two-night stay. It sleeps up to 13. Two of the four rooms are en-suite. The farm also has other cottages (see website).
Need to know It’s self-catering and there’s a fully functional kitchen with a gas stove. Bring everything you might need because it’s 50 kms from the nearest town. Electricity is fully solar and so moderate use is necessary, especially in winter. You can get there with an ordinary car.
Activities This river is made for enjoying: swim it, tube down it, fish it. Once a year there’s a tubing expedition down the river. It’s spectacular because you see parts of the river that few will ever lay their eyes on. It goes through rapids and jumping from rocks is involved, plus a stiff uphill hike on the way back. There’s also good hiking and birding in the Groot Winterhoek Wilderness Area.
Website Glendonaldcottage.co.za
GLENDONALD'S APPROACH TO LOW-IMPACT OPERATIONS
ENERGY USAGE GlenDonald Cottage is entirely dependent on solar, except for the geysers and stove, which use gas because it’s more efficient and economical, says Macdonald. The solar is sufficient, but usage does need to be managed, especially in winter. The farm is not drawing energy from a municipal grid.
WATER USAGE The cottage draws water from a stream adjacent to it, and there’s no need to restrict its usage, says Macdonald. Also, there’s no need to harvest water because there’s an oversupply. Any water not used flows back into the river.
WASTE MANAGEMENT All waste is taken to the next-door farm, which doesn’t recycle. It’s 50 kilometres from the nearest town, which makes it difficult and expensive to transport waste; however, one of the Macdonald’s stated goals is to work with the farmer to start recycling. There’s very limited use of plastics in the cottage.
CULTURE + COMMUNITY The business employs five people from a small community who have lived in the valley for generations. It’s also contributing to the development of a crèche, helping to fundraise and providing some equipment. It also supports staff with bridging loans and sports equipment and clothing.
BIODIVERSITY + ECOSYSTEMS GlenDonald partners with CapeNature, and the owner’s greatest priority is to retain its unique biodiversity and pristine environment. To this end, Macdonald continually engages with the relevant stakeholders. Alien plants, such as black wattle, are regularly removed. Fires are strictly controlled and fire-fighting equipment is on hand. No pesticides are used on the property, although there is seepage further up in the valley, says Macdonald. The Olifants River is home to the endangered Clanwilliam yellowfish and sawfin, and Macdonald protects it strictly. For this reason, numbers on the farm are limited to guests only and no camping is allowed. This preserves the pristine environment and its biodiversity.